Off the Beaten Appellation Feature

The Margaret River is one of Australia's most isolated wine regions- and one of its most interesting. Though it has long been an acclaimed region for red wines it has entered the wine drinking consciousness slowly, it was only given Australian Geographic Indication (GI) status in 1996. Bon Appetit ran an brief but flattering piece last year, though it was mostly pictorial.

The region first had vines planted in the 1800’s, which eventually succumbed to economic pressures. Dr. John Gladstones recognized the area’s potential and was instrumental in the 1967 re-introduction of vines, noting the similarities to Bordeaux’s climate, which have since been verified by research studies. The big difference between the two areas comes in consistency: Bordeaux is more prone to sharper heating and cooling cycles. This means that while the amount of heat during the growing season that both areas gets is similar, the Margaret River area has a slightly longer and cooler growing season. Today, there are over 100 growers and about 90 wineries.

Warm air from the Indian Ocean is balanced by cold arctic winds, giving Margaret River a long and cool growing season. Bordeaux, France experiences a similar effect from the North Atlantic Current, though the growing season there is more susceptible to harvest season rain and hail storms. Soil composition in both regions is also similar; a mix of gravely loam with strong mineral veins. Wines from cool climates show a depth and consistent evolution on the palate that hot climate areas just can't match. Hot climate wines tend to have huge opening flavors, a weak mid-palate leading to a jammy finish; cool climate viticulture yields a less aggressive, more supple wine.

Margaret River reds showcase dark fruit and eucalyptus flavors over rich soil notes, while the whites show off the ocean's influence with marshy, mineral elements underneath layers of crisp tropical fruit. The Ringbolt winery shares more than just a similar climate and soil composition with Bordeaux; winemaker Peter Gambetta did two harvests in 2005, one in Australia and one in France. You can see the Bordelaise influence in his winemaking- the Ringbolt isn’t the greatest red from the Margaret River but it has an amazing sense of grace and balance usually only found in higher price point wines. That may be the only major weakness to wines from this region: price. It is difficult to get someone new to wine, or even someone who knows wine but is new to the wines of Margaret River, to give them a chance. Once the people that I’ve talked with about the wine do try them, they almost always come back for more.

2004 Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon $14
Margaret River, Australia 14.5 % abv
Opens with a great depth of boysenberry, plum and red currant aromas with cedar and vanilla spice notes. Mellow and round tannins support the fruit, while are restrained and don't overpower it in the mouth. Plum and currant continue from the nose onto the palate, evolving into rich soil and clove in the middle. An elegant finish of berries and eucalyptus finishes the wine. If you're looking for an introduction to Margaret River's classically structured wines, start here. www.ringbolt.com.


2005 Leeuwin Estate “Prelude” Chardonnay $30
Margaret River, Australia 14% abv
Coming from 18 – 25 year old vineyards on the Western edge of Australia, this chardonnay offers marshy aromas mixed with tropical fruits spiked with citrus. Good texture in the mouth, and the citrus comes through more clearly on the palate. Very clean fruit flavors (apple, pear, pineapple) leading to a long finish. Partial malolactic fermentation. The Leeuwin “Artist Series” chardonnay is barrel selected from this wine, so the “prelude” version offers a great value. www.leeuwinestate.com.au

2006 Cullen “Ellen Bussell” Red $24
Margaret River, Australia 14% abv
Berry, currant and plum in the nose with nice oak aromas in the background. Opens up in the glass to reveal layers of juicy dark fruit; a blend of 58% cabernet sauvignon, 36% merlot, 3% malbec and 3% petit verdot. Mid-length finish of blackberries and vanillin, still young- decant if drinking in the next year. Certified organic and biodynamic. www.cullenwines.com.au

2002 Leeuwin Estate “Siblings” Cabernet $21
Margaret River, Australia 13.5%
Green and black pepper aromas over plum tones. Very elegant in the mouth, with berry fruit up front. Slightly jammy in the middle, before currants, eucalyptus and black raspberry flavors begin a long finish. 80% cabernet sauvignon with the remaining 20% made up from merlot and petit verdot. Note: This is a different bottling than their “Art Series” Cabernet. www.leeuwinestate.com.au/

For more information on the area visit: http://www.margaret-river-online.com.au/winesnew/index.html or go to http://www.margaret-river-online.com.au/maps/index.html for maps of the region.