Thursday, February 21, 2008

Thursday Tasting Notes

2006 Luna Rosa Malbec $7
Mendoza, Argentina 13% abv

Boysenberry extract, mild eucalyptus, hints of plum, rose blossoms and leather. The rose petals come through in the mouth, with red berry fruit. Spicy mint and bitter herb flavors in the middle, leading to dark plum and cedar on the finish. This could be a nice malbec, but is marred by a soapy flavor throughout the palate. On the hunch of an acquaintance who has some wine making experience, he tested the pH at 3.8- on the high side of normal and this may explain the soapy taste and odd mouth feel. That doesn’t excuse the winery for releasing a wine with a chemical problem, which could be easily fixed.

NV Messina Hof “Texas Hold’Em” White $10
American Wine 13% abv
This is a blend of pinot grigio and gewürztraminer from the Texas winery Messina Hof, it’s not clear from the bottle though where the grapes for this wine or the red came from. Pear and white grape aromas, followed by lychee nut and hints of nectarine and honeysuckle. The gewürztraminer spiciness comes out on the palate, lending white pepper and nutmeg to the fruit combination of: lychee, white grapes, nectarine and tangerines. There is an undertone of floral notes that starts in the middle and continues through the finish. Light and delicate, pair with scallops, shrimp, or sole munier.

NV Messina Hof “Texas Hold’Em” Red $11
American Wine 13% abv

Red plum, clove, vanilla spice and blackberry aromas come from this blend of merlot and “shiraz”. Oaky spices and plum flavors open the palate. Juicy mid-palate flavors of berry, vanilla and leather flavors. The tannins mellow in the mouth, letting the dark fruit flavors show through. Mid length finish, slightly overpriced. Pair with burgers or chili.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Guy Drew Vineyards

There is something special about Guy Drew and his vineyards in southwestern Colorado. Compared to other wine regions, Colorado’s wine industry is still a newborn. “…Yes, we have a long way to go. But we’re getting there…” Guy Drew said in an interview for the Ft. Worth (Texas) Star-Telegram. With his winery entering its eighth year winning medals at international wine competitions around the country, Guy is helping guide Colorado wines out of infancy.


Guy Drew bought grapes from Palisade growers for his first two vintages. “We decided to come out with our second label first, Crooked Creek, and use the Guy Drew Vineyards label for our reserve wines” he notes. His first releases under his own name totaled just 65 cases of a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon and a vintage port from the same year. Today, Guy has 20 acres planted with nine varieties, and is learning to work with the micro climates unique to his land.


Like the vineyards near Grand Junction and Palisade, where most of the Colorado wine industry is focused, Guy’s vineyards in southern Colorado experience late spring and early fall frosts. To compensate for the frost-shortened growing season, the Montezuma Valley provides a dry growing season with warm fall days followed by cool nights. This provides concentrated color in red grapes and good acidity in both red and white grapes. Guy comments that he still has a lot to learn about the various micro climates in the region, both as he plants more of his own grapes and helps newcomers determine which varieties will be best suited to their land. “We still have to take care to plant the correct varieties in the right place since the length of the growing season can vary….” Remarks Guy, “Our biggest challenge has been understanding these micro climates and what causes the adverse conditions, primarily spring frost.”


Independent growers’ have twenty acres near Guy’s winery that supplement his own vineyard production. Guy has contracted to have another 20 acres planted this spring. Three new growers are establishing vineyards in the area this spring. With vineyards in the area expanding, Guy hopes to raise his current production of 3,000+ cases annually up to near 6,000 cases year, toward a goal of 15,000 cases annually.


The wines Guy is producing have what the French refer to as “terroir” (pronounced: “teh-rwahr”, pretend you’re Babwa Wawters), that alchemical representation of the history and place that a wine came from. You can taste the limestone which runs through the vineyard soil. There is an earthiness to his wines as well, from the clay loam and red soil blown in from nearby Monument Valley. All Colorado wines have an inherent mineral quality to them; the Crooked Creek and Guy Drew Vineyard wines have turned this into an asset.


Imbibe Magazine wrote this of the 2003 Guy Drew Vineyards Cabernet Franc: Guy Drew is on to something…. This medium bodied Cabernet Franc is filled with dark fruit aromas and is just acidic enough. Visit Guy on the web at: http://www.guydrewvineyards.com/.



2003 Crooked Creek Syrah $10
Colorado 14% abv
Nice blackberry and plum aromas, framed by earthy smells. Bright cherry flavors in the mouth, with nice mineraly/ earthy notes emerging on the mid-palate. Good depth of flavors, with a hint of herbs that lead up to a finish of dark fruit and tangy acids. Silver Medal at the 2005 Eastern International Wine Competition.


2005 Crooked Creek Rosé $10
Colorado 12%
An off-dry rose made by bleeding juice off Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) wines (this process will concentrated the remaining juice in proportion to the skins and seeds left in the original fermentation container, making the color and structure of the resulting wine much more intense. At the same time, you get a little pink colored juice, which treated nicely will yield a nice rosé wine to drink over the summer). Nice strawberry aromas that burst onto the palate with your first sip. A little sweeter than I expected, but well made and refreshing.

2003 Crooked Creek Cabernet Sauvignon $10

Colorado 14% abv
This wine highlights the mineral elements of southwestern Colorado. Blackberry fruit and new leather flavors paired with bright acids make it quaffable on its own, or great with food. Black plum, cracked pepper and spice at the finish. Try with BBQ or Colorado lamb, roasted or braised. Took a Silver medal at the 2005 Denver International Competition.


2005 Crooked Creek American Gewurztraminer $11
Colorado/ Utah alc % not in my notes
Lots of melon aromas in the nose, which easily follow to the mouth. Nice spiciness on the palate, a gewürztraminer hallmark, followed by notes of apricots and tropical fruits. This wine shows best with food- I had it at a wine dinner at the Black Cat Bistro in Boulder, Colorado last fall, they paired it with a dish of wild rice spatzle, apples, pumpkin and lemon juice- it made me rethink the wine from my earlier tasting notes. The grapes are source from a vineyard just over the Colorado border in Utah. Worth buying alone just to support a rogue wine industry in Utah.


2004 Crooked Creek Meritage $11
Colorado 14%
A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 20%Merlot and 3%Petit Verdot. Aromatic right from the cork pull, this Bordeaux blend exhibits rich plum, black currant and berry extract. Those flavors linger before a spicy vanilla and black pepper finish. There is a great acid/ tannin balance here, should you want to let it age over the next few years. The wine develops complexity in the glass, with chokecherry and hints of leather coming out. There is a mineral tang running through the wine too, helping bring all the flavors together.


2004 Guy Drew Vineyards Syrah $14
Montezuma County, Colorado 14.8% Alcohol
Black raspberry, cassis and spicy vanilla aromas in the nose. A medium-full bodied wine full of dark berry flavors enhanced by layers of cedar, rocky soil and clove/ vanillin spice. Nice complexity to the fruit- develops in the glass to offer up more fruit tones and absorbs the spice into a nice complexity. A great food wine (lamb, BBQ ribs or lentil stews), the relatively high alcohol content doesn’t overwhelm the palate or the aromas. Finishes with strong chocolate notes, and just a hint of earthy minerals. Took Silver Medals at both the 2006 Grand Harvest Awards and the 2006 Colorado Winefest.

2003 Guy Drew Vineyards Cabernet Franc $13

Montezuma County, Colorado 13%

Begins with generous strawberry and rose petal aromas, with hints of anise and vanilla. Comes alive on the palate with mulberry, old leather, and dark plum flavors with some culinary herbs on the fringes. This is a great example of an overlooked varietal- rich, well balanced and intreguing. Pair with lamb (or venison) chops with a dark cherry infused sauce or a more conventional grilled filet mignon. Long finish of dark fruits and oaky vanilla.

2004 Guy Drew Vineyards Riesling $14

Montezuma County, Colorado 13% abv
Nectarine, clover and spicy floral notes in the nose. Starts in the palate with super ripe nectarine, spiced guava and dogwood blossom flavors. A bone dry Riesling (no residual sugar at all) that develops granny smith apple flavors toward the finish, preceded by flower blossom and lemon notes. Slightly bitter at first, but hits it’s stride when matched with food- think spicy Indian or Northern Thai Curries (especially a decent Green Straits Devil curry).



2004 Guy Drew Vineyards “Metate” $30
Montezuma County, Colorado 14%
Guy's reserve wine- really limited quantities made and now very hard to find. A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 16% each of: Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Cedar, black cherry, earth/ moist soil and red currant aromas. Velvet purple in color, starts with red plum, oaky spice and currant flavors. Blackberry and vanilla at the mid-palate through the finish, where you get nice earthy notes. A wine made for aging over the next three or four years, it drinks nicely now. Pair with ancho crusted venison or mole dishes. Develops tobacco and leather aromas and flavors in the glass.

2003 Guy Drew Vineyards Port $20

Colorado 18% abv, 500 ml bottle
Blackberry, honey, vanilla bean custard and candied plum aromas develop in the glass- this is still a very young vintage port. Deep, dark ruby in color- almost opaque- with the texture of melted chocolate. Generous candied plum, bourbon vanilla and complex berry flavors. Some notes of golden raisins, and honey at the mid-palate. This is an almost over-the-top port, that is the perfect antidote for cold weather. Chocolate at the finish with just a hint of minerals. Only 50 cases made, won a silver medal at the Eastern International Wine Competition.



A view of Guy's vineyards, from near the tasting room.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Valentine's Day Tasting Notes

2003 Tintara Shiraz $19
McLaren Vale, Australia 14.5%

Molasses and eucalyptus underneath blackberry extract and dark plum aromas. Nice aromatic complexity, with jasmine flowers and cassis developing in the glass. There is just the barest perception of alcohol on the palate, along with some heavy oak spice, that mellows in the glass- marking this as a young shiraz still, with several years left before it hits its prime. Decant at least an hour to drink now. Blackberry jam flavors in the middle are followed by loganberry and blood orange notes toward the finish. The molasses from the nose translates in the mouth to a deep undercurrent of sweet, stewed fruit flavors. Long finish of clove, vanilla extract, plum, oak and berry flavors. Incredible balance throughout, well worth the $20. Great with dark, bittersweet chocolate- try to find some with chipotle peppers blended in to have an over-the-top experience.

2006 Adelsheim Vineyards Pinot Gris $16
Willamette Valley, Oregon 13.8% abv

Very ice nose- starts with honey glazed figs, sweet apple and hints of melon before offering up creamy pear, carambola and Asian baking spices. Vibrant, but not overwhelming, acids on the palate that carries the fruit well. Pear and spices up front with fig, melon and grape flavors following in the mid-palate. Star fruit, honeysuckle and lime zest flavors at the finish. Very round flavors with a good balance between the acids and fruit. Just a hint of minerals in the mouth. This is not my favorite Oregon pinot gris, but is a great wine- pair with anything from spicy pacific rim cuisine to spaetzle and schnitzel or rotisserie chicken. Very nice.

2006 Coppola “Sofia” Pinot Noir Rose $16
Carneros, California 12% abv
Creamy strawberry aromas set off by hints of pine nuts, raspberries, canary melons, and tropical fruits like guava and candied mango. Rich and round on the palate, with a great viscosity from a little sugar left over from fermentation that both makes the wine off-dry, and gives it heft as it rolls over your tongue. Flavored with strawberry and citrus up front, the mid-palate offers softer raspberry notes. This wine would make a great brunch staple, with navel orange flavored acids that will make your mouth water for food. The tropical fruit notes from the nose come out on the finish, with notes of lemon peel and flowers.

NV La Diosa Cellars Sangria $8
Texas 12% abv
This Texas made sangria conveniently comes bottles with a screw cap, which makes it perfect for taking along on a picnic, or traveling out on a night of romance. For those of you who like your red wines sweet, this is a slightly grown-up version of those sugar filled reds you’re used to. Aromas of fresh orange juice, grapefruit peel and rosemary play off the red berry and plum you’d get from a red wine. Bright on the palate, with a hint at effervescence in the flavoring, there are generous dabs of juicy grape, candied raspberry and citrus flavors on the palate. Serve well chilled.

Monday, February 11, 2008

February Wine Vocabulary

Vitis Aestivalis (VEE-tis ess-tiv-VAY-lis) A family of grape vines native to North America. Sometimes used when making hybrids to lower acidity or reduce the “foxy” flavor of vitis labrusca grapes. The most commonly known grape in the wine world from the v. Aestivalis family is the Norton, sometimes called Cynthiana, that makes a dark colored and intensely flavored wine somewhere between a cabernet and a mourvedre. There is some debate as to the exact origins of Norton, and whether Cynthiana is a different grape or just a clonal selection. Norton wines are made in Virginia, Missouri, Texas and other states in the American South.

Gewurztraminer (Guh-vertz-trah-mee-ner) A grape native to Germany, and also grown extensively in the Alsace region of France, known for producing slightly sweet wines with a “spicy” finish. The spices here are different from the spices in oak, namely they are more toward the baking end of the scale and tend to be described as sweet clove, nutmeg, white pepper, cinnamon and cardamom. The “spiciness” of gewürztraminer combined with a small amount of residual sugar (say, one to four percent) makes an ideal accompaniment to foods that are “hot” spicy- think Thai, Tex-Mex, Tandoori from India or traditional cuisines in southern Mexico and Cuba.
Gewurztraminers can also make very elegant dry white wines capable of aging for several years, though these are rarely found outside of Europe because of the demand for them is much higher in Europe than the United States. The grape is also capable of producing some very sweet dessert wines, on par with the best in the world. The dessert versions can be slightly easier to find, but tend to be quite expensive for most wine drinkers.

Dry Farming (drī FArm-eng) A practice of vineyard management that uses very little irrigation water, in an area that generally does not get much rainfall. Cover crops are added between vine rows to help conserve soil moisture. The reasoning behind dry farming is that the grape vines will have to work a little harder, sending their roots down further and thereby creating a grape (and by extension wine) that has a much higher concentration of flavor for its size, and a stronger expression of the place where it was grown- what the French refer to as terroir.

Aroma vs. Bouquet (ə-rō-mə vs. bō-kā) While similar in function, these two words refer to two different aspects of smell. Aroma, when used in wine terminology, means the smells coming from a young wine- and young is a relative term her; it could mean a ten year old Bordeaux that was meant to age for thirty or more years, or it could refer to the smells given off a glass of last years’ chardonnay. Bouquet, meanwhile, refers to the range of smells coming from an older wine. For whites, five years plus in age is old enough to qualify, and for reds you can start thinking about the bouquet at ten to fifteen years- depending on the style of wine. An older wine will generally have a much more complex set of smells than a younger bottle; for example a young cabernet might give you blueberry, clove, vanilla and red plum aromas. An older bottle from the same producer might give you a complex web of earth notes, tobacco, dark berry fruit and subtle oaky spice at the edges; meaning essentially that it was difficult to isolate specific smells from the wine. On the occasion that you open a bottle of wine that has been aged too long, it is quite valid to use words like ”water”, “oxidation”, “old berry” when describing it- what has happened is that on a molecular level, the wine is beginning to separate and the varied components are no longer holding together.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Thursday Tasting Notes

2006 Chard-On-Yeah! $10
Monterey County, California 13.5% abv

Creamy pear and red apple open the nose, with star fruit and tropical fruit hints. Almost overbearing acidity at first, but mellows after a moment in the glass to offer pear and pineapple flavors. The mid-palate has creamy apple flavors and yeasty highlights. A crisp, clean tasting Unoaked chardonnay that holds onto its varietal character. Finishes with flavors of toasted nuts, Fuji apples and lime juice. A well made wine for drinking with friends- just chill down and serve with cheese and cracker trays. A nicely done house wine for World Market, made by Trinchero Family Estates (Folie a Deux, Napa Cellars, etc).

2004 Wrangler Cabernet Sauvignon $10
Columbia Valley, WA 13.5% abv
Aromas of Blackberries, medium-heavy toasted oak, plums, soy sauce and toasted sesame seeds. Juicy plum flavors with some currant and soy spice behind. Medium bodied tannins- acids are a little flat though. Mellow through the mid-palate, showing blueberry notes. Finishes with berry fruit, pepper, sesame and star anise spice. There is nice fruit here, but it’s overshadowed by the weird soy-sesame flavors and left unsupported by the too mild acids. I think that there is potential from this winery- they just aren’t quite there yet.

2005 Pine & Post Merlot $7
Columbia Valley, WA 13.5% abv
Opens with spicy blackberry, cloves and plum in the nose. Light to medium bodied, with plum and blackberry flavors coming through on the palate. Slightly bitter in the middle, leading to a short finish with only mild spice. Included here only because of the next review.

2005 Pine & Post Chardonnay $7
Columbia Valley, WA 13% abv
Creamy green apple notes in the nose, set off by ginger, lychee and bread yeast smells. Firmly medium bodied with tangerine flavored acids. Nice pear and apple flavors, especially strong in the middle. Mango flavors come out on the far side of the palate, along with creamy vanilla and guava notes. There are some caramelized sugar hints at the finish, lime flavors come out. A very nice chardonnay for the price- pair with tilefish over lemon scented rice pilaf, braised chicken or ginger spiced pork.

Monday, February 4, 2008

Malbec and Chocolate

When I used to work as a Caterer and Chef, one of the things that I looked for were recipes that took a small amount of time, few ingredients, and had a great presentation value. Around this time of year I did a lot of work with chocolate- fondue set-ups, individual desserts and small gift lots of rich desserts. And truffles, lots of truffles- which are much easier that you'd think to do. They take some hand work, and are monotonous in huge batches, though in small batches are simple and quick to do.

Ghirardelli Dark Citrus Truffles:
Hands on time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 1 day

Ghirardelli Intense Dark "Citrus Sunset" 3.5 oz chocolate bar
½ cup heavy whipping cream
1-tablespoon butter (may be either salted or unsalted)

1. Measure butter, and whipping cream into microwave safe bowl
2. Microwave butter/cream mixture until butter is just barely melted, and remove bowl from microwave-about one minute
3. Break six of the eight squares of chocolate into the butter/cream mixture, reserving two pieces for coating
4. Stir butter/cream/chocolate mixture until the chocolate has barely melted in- this mixture is called ganache
5. Refrigerate your ganache overnight
6. Working quickly- With a tablespoon scoop out tablespoon sized chunks of ganache and roll them into balls, and place on a small plate
7. Freeze the ganache balls for ½ hour
8. Place the two reserved squares of chocolate onto a perfectly dry microwave safe bowl
9. Microwave chocolate squares in 10 second intervals until it looks shiny and soft but not yet runny- this is your tempered chocolate coating
10. Using two spoons roll a ganache ball in chocolate coating, and place on a plate that has been covered in waxed paper- work quickly and one at a time, if necessary chocolate coating can be put back in the microwave for 5-10 seconds to get it smooth again
11. Chill truffles for at least two hours, and serve
Note: You can substitute another gourmet chocolate bar in for the "Citrus Sunset" Bar above to get a differently flavored truffle.

Dark chocolate truffles work well with malbecs, some of my favorite malbecs and -based blends are:

Catena Alta Argentina $60
Exotic dark fruit and mint aromas, loads of spice in the nose and on the palate too. Black raspberry, currant and bittersweet chocolate flavors. Hints of smoke and sumac powder.
Ben Marco "Expressivo" Argentina $30
A rich and expressive Malbec based blend- has some tannat, syrah, cabernet and bonarda. Limited quantities made- age for four to six years or decant. Also, the regular Ben Marco malbec around $18 is very good, particularly the 2004 if you can find it.
Lo Tengo Argentina $10
A classic fruit forward malbec with pepper and spice on the finish, lives up to the hologram label. A second label for Bodega Norton, their Malbec Reserva is also worth seeking out at $15.
Montes Classic Series Chile $10
Chilean Malbec- surprisingly good, but then again it's Montes. Rich and full in the mouth, and a bittersweet chocolate laced finish.
Desolation Flats California, USA $7
Fun and fruity- loads of boysenberry and blackberry with a moderate amount of spices. Now widely available, but a fun find. Recognizable by the Sheriff’s Badge shaped label.

Thursday, January 31, 2008

A Vertical Tasting on Two Spanish Wines

Marquis de Gelida Vintage Cava Brut $13
Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, Spain 11.5% abv

2000
A complex nose of creamy butter, toasted almonds, Jonathan apples and mellow lime. Golden pineapple and Asian pear flavors with hints of mango on the palate. Lime and green pear at the mid-palate. Granny Smith apples at finish with some musk, limestone and unsalted cashew flavors. Mild ammonia.

2001
Nutty aromas are more pronounced here, with green apple, lime and minerals in the background. Mellow acidity on the palate with pineapple, guava, lime and grapefruit flavors. Very creamy texture, mellower and smoother than the ’00, more complete. Minerals are barely apparent in the mouth. My pick of the three vintages.

2002
Opens with lemon and mineral aromas, followed by buttery notes and toasted nuts. Brisk and limey in the mouth, showing lemongrass, kiwi and pineapple flavors. Hints of butter and pear. Hazelnut flavors come out at finish.

Pair with scallops and shellfish with an appetizer. Sole, sea bass or crab entrees, or with crème caramel or butter cookies for dessert.

Juan Gil Monastrell $16
Jumilla, Spain 14.8% abv

2002
Dark chocolate, cherry, black raspberry jam, silver leaf sage, cedar and star anise aromas set off by pepper- dark, exotic and complex nose. Cherry and black raspberry jam up front on the palate. Plum, cassis liquor and chai spices in the mid-palate. Pepper and oaky spice at the finish. This wine may age a bit longer, but I think that it’s reached it’s peak- its still rich and powerful with a very long finish. Sage and lavender herb notes are in the far background- and come out as a slightly bitter, but not unpleasant, note. Tannins still carry the fruit well. My pick of the two.

2003
Blackberry, and oak aromas set off by wood smoke hints. More mellow oak aromas than ’02- more fruit forward. Begins on the palate with cherry and blackberry jam. Berries and cassis liquor in the middle with a slight bitterness at the finish. Much more fruit focused that the ’02, and with better tannin integration and acid balance. Finishes with wood smoke, vanilla, clove and chokecherry flavors.

Pair
with game meats like antelope or venison for entrees, with chocolate at dessert or with quail as an appetizer.

Monday, January 28, 2008

Off the Beaten Appellation Feature

The Margaret River is one of Australia's most isolated wine regions- and one of its most interesting. Though it has long been an acclaimed region for red wines it has entered the wine drinking consciousness slowly, it was only given Australian Geographic Indication (GI) status in 1996. Bon Appetit ran an brief but flattering piece last year, though it was mostly pictorial.

The region first had vines planted in the 1800’s, which eventually succumbed to economic pressures. Dr. John Gladstones recognized the area’s potential and was instrumental in the 1967 re-introduction of vines, noting the similarities to Bordeaux’s climate, which have since been verified by research studies. The big difference between the two areas comes in consistency: Bordeaux is more prone to sharper heating and cooling cycles. This means that while the amount of heat during the growing season that both areas gets is similar, the Margaret River area has a slightly longer and cooler growing season. Today, there are over 100 growers and about 90 wineries.

Warm air from the Indian Ocean is balanced by cold arctic winds, giving Margaret River a long and cool growing season. Bordeaux, France experiences a similar effect from the North Atlantic Current, though the growing season there is more susceptible to harvest season rain and hail storms. Soil composition in both regions is also similar; a mix of gravely loam with strong mineral veins. Wines from cool climates show a depth and consistent evolution on the palate that hot climate areas just can't match. Hot climate wines tend to have huge opening flavors, a weak mid-palate leading to a jammy finish; cool climate viticulture yields a less aggressive, more supple wine.

Margaret River reds showcase dark fruit and eucalyptus flavors over rich soil notes, while the whites show off the ocean's influence with marshy, mineral elements underneath layers of crisp tropical fruit. The Ringbolt winery shares more than just a similar climate and soil composition with Bordeaux; winemaker Peter Gambetta did two harvests in 2005, one in Australia and one in France. You can see the Bordelaise influence in his winemaking- the Ringbolt isn’t the greatest red from the Margaret River but it has an amazing sense of grace and balance usually only found in higher price point wines. That may be the only major weakness to wines from this region: price. It is difficult to get someone new to wine, or even someone who knows wine but is new to the wines of Margaret River, to give them a chance. Once the people that I’ve talked with about the wine do try them, they almost always come back for more.

2004 Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon $14
Margaret River, Australia 14.5 % abv

Opens with a great depth of boysenberry, plum and red currant aromas with cedar and vanilla spice notes. Mellow and round tannins support the fruit, while are restrained and don't overpower it in the mouth. Plum and currant continue from the nose onto the palate, evolving into rich soil and clove in the middle. An elegant finish of berries and eucalyptus finishes the wine. If you're looking for an introduction to Margaret River's classically structured wines, start here.
www.ringbolt.com.


2005 Leeuwin Estate “Prelude” Chardonnay $30
Margaret River, Australia 14% abv

Coming from 18 – 25 year old vineyards on the Western edge of Australia, this chardonnay offers marshy aromas mixed with tropical fruits spiked with citrus. Good texture in the mouth, and the citrus comes through more clearly on the palate. Very clean fruit flavors (apple, pear, pineapple) leading to a long finish. Partial malolactic fermentation. The Leeuwin “Artist Series” chardonnay is barrel selected from this wine, so the “prelude” version offers a great value. www.leeuwinestate.com.au

2006 Cullen “Ellen Bussell” Red $24
Margaret River, Australia 14% abv

Berry, currant and plum in the nose with nice oak aromas in the background. Opens up in the glass to reveal layers of juicy dark fruit; a blend of 58% cabernet sauvignon, 36% merlot, 3% malbec and 3% petit verdot. Mid-length finish of blackberries and vanillin, still young- decant if drinking in the next year. Certified organic and biodynamic. www.cullenwines.com.au

2002 Leeuwin Estate “Siblings” Cabernet $21
Margaret River, Australia 13.5%

Green and black pepper aromas over plum tones. Very elegant in the mouth, with berry fruit up front. Slightly jammy in the middle, before currants, eucalyptus and black raspberry flavors begin a long finish. 80% cabernet sauvignon with the remaining 20% made up from merlot and petit verdot. Note: This is a different bottling than their “Art Series” Cabernet. www.leeuwinestate.com.au/

For more information on the area visit:
http://www.margaret-river-online.com.au/winesnew/index.html or go to http://www.margaret-river-online.com.au/maps/index.html for maps of the region.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Thursday Tasting Notes

2006 McManis Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
$10 California, USA 13.5% abv
Blueberry, eucalyptus and allspice aromas with some blackberry notes and a few alcohol fumes. Lots of oak up front on the palate, joined by blueberry and plum flavors. Vanilla, clove, eucalyptus spice the mid-palate fruit. Medium-light bodied after the oak mellows, with a good acid balance but not much to make it stand out. Some cherry on the finish.

2006 McManis Family Vineyards Chardonnay $10
River Junction, CA 13.5% abv
Creamy peach and pear in the nose with mellow brioche and butterscotch in the background. This is the best offering from McManis I’ve had yet- nice, round pear and vanilla flavors at the beginning give way to peach and butterscotch at the mid-palate. Mid-long finish of pineapple and muskmelon with bread notes following. Pair with honey glazed hams or maple glazed chicken to fully appreciate the balanced lime flavored acidity. A solid value, just slightly off dry at the very end.

2006 Pierano Estate “the Other” White $14
Lodi, CA 13.8% abv

Opens with aromas of dried apricots, peaches and nectarines. Creamy green apple and tart fruit aromas develop in the glass with honeysuckle at the edges. Bright fruit opens the palate with a mineral undertone. Grapefruit, pineapple, pear and white peach flavors. Some yeasty/nutty notes in the middle, alongside a bit of viognier funk leading to the finish. Musty tropical fruit and dogwood blossom at the finish. A blend of 65% chardonnay, 25% sauvignon blanc and 10% viognier. This is not the first time I’ve had chardonnay and sauvignon blanc blended together, and I remain unconvinced of the wisdom of the combination. Add viognier to the mix and maybe it’ll come together- but not here. Interesting, pair with soft-shell crab sandwiches or Pac Rim cuisine.

2005 Peregrine Hill Merlot $8
Texas, USA 12% abv
Plum and allspice aromas lead red currant, cedar and blackberry tones. Made in a fruit-forward style, with lighter medium bodied tannins. Begins with blackberry and red plum flavors before a juicy mid-palate. Good acidity and black tea and currant flavors lead to plum and berry fruit near the end- spiced with mellow pepper and clove. Very quaffable, without losing its personality. A slightly higher price point wine made by Ste. Genevieve.

2006 Contadino Rosso IGT $5
Tuscany, Italy 12.5% abv

Blackberry and cherry aromas with a hint of soil. Light and fruit in the mouth, with mild tannins. This is just what you’d expect from an IGT wine bottled in a wicker covered flask bottle- easy drinking, uncomplicated flavors: blackberry and raspberry with sweet vanilla and clove spices. Short finish. Pair with pizzas, pastas or cured meats. The next time you participate in a charity spaghetti dinner, this is the wine to bring.

Monday, January 21, 2008

January Feature

Wine critics play up the exclusivity of them, Bordeaux prices are set by them and wineries are finally tapping them as another marketing tool. Barrel tastings are one of the most romanticized aspects of the wine industry, and one of the hardest to learn.
How does tasting the wine in barrel, or in a stainless steel tank for that matter, relate to the finished, bottled product? It’s a bit like looking at your kid, and accurately predicting what they’ll be like in two, three, ten or twenty years- the margin of error goes up the further out you go. In the event you’re ever offered the chance to participate in a barrel tasting, so sign up to take one of the organized tastings, here are a few things to keep in mind:

1- The barrel you’re tasting out of is likely to be blended with several other barrels to make up a winery release- the common size barrel, 59 U.S. gallons, holds about 290 bottles of wine plus or minus (sediment, air, etc). That’s slightly under 25 cases. Not many wineries can afford to deal in such small quantities, and not many do because of the amount of labor and hassle to product yield is not viable. So what you’re tasting should be recognizable in the final product, though there will be other components that came from other barrels.

2- Each barrel will have a unique effect the wine. Coopers, Wine Makers and Cellar Masters the world over will tell you this- even though two barrels came from the same Cooperage, they may impart slightly different qualities to the wines aged in them.

3- The wine you’ll be tasting has a lot more tannin in it when straight out of the barrel than it will later when from a bottle. Give the wine a minute of swirling to open up.

4- Pay attention to the cellar and wine temperature- chances are if you’re on an organized tour, the winery will have taken a lot of effort to make sure that the wines they’re presenting to you are at the best temperature to show them off in the best way possible.

5- Take notes, record everything you can about the wine and then taste the wine after it’s been bottled and take notes then too. Compare the sets of notes, and you’ll begin to see what the barrel aging part of a wines life gives to it.

Last spring, I had the chance to visit Guy Drew Vineyards in southwestern Colorado and try some of his wines from the barrel- and from stainless steel tanks. Following the tasting notes are links to Guy’s winery, and some other resources on barrel tastings and tours.

2005 Chardonnay
Tasted from a stainless steel tank; the wine was being settled for bottling. Oaked, Estate grown fruit. Aromas of pineapple, musk and yeast. Smooth on palate, with a buttery finish, nice tropical fruit flavors in the middle.

2006 Chardonnay
Also tasted from a steel tank during the settling process, the fruit was purchased from a vineyard the Grand Junction/ Palisades area (Western Slope) of Colorado. Unoaked, with a nice focus on the fruit aspects of the chardonnay grape. Good viscosity in the mouth, shows mango hints/ guava and white peach. Clover. Very round in the mouth. Fermented at 47˚ f.

2006 Pinot Noir
From young vines, about five years old- purchased fruit from a grower in Montezuma County. Strong cherry and chokecherry flavors. Still very young, with grapey aromas but with a good depth of flavors. Tasted from a French Oak barrel, not bottled yet to my knowledge. Earth and dark berry fruit flavors at the finish. Look for this when it’s released.

2005 Guy Drew Vineyards Chardonnay $11
Montezuma County, Colorado, USA 13% abv Screw Cap

The nose opens with musky fruit aromas with hints of marshy soil. Pineapple and creamy butter notes develop, framed by just a hint of minerals. The butter notes come through on the palate along with some French oak character (subtle smoke and vanilla) before the pineapple, pear and papaya fruit show. Nice mid-length finish with a mellow acidity holding all the flavors in harmony. Pair with grilled chicken, oysters or young goat’s milk cheeses.

2006 Guy Drew Vineyards Chardonnay $11
Colorado, USA 14.2% abv Cork Finish

Apple and pear in the nose, comes off almost like a riesling with all of the peach and honeysuckle aromas. Shows best slightly warmer than you’d normally serve a chardonnay; green apple flavors come out in the glass with a mouth-filling viscosity. Mango and peach flavors, with a slight floral undercurrent. Pair with roasted pork and apples or spicy dishes. Medium-length finish that leaves a tinge of sweetness on the palate.

Guy Drew Vineyards
www.guydrewvineyards.com

Sonoma County Barrel Tasting
www.scbarreltasting.com/

Match Vineyards; Wine Makers’ Notes on Barrel Tasting
http://www.matchvineyards.com/movabletype/archives/2006/03/barrel_tasting_2.html


Friday, January 18, 2008

Tasting Notes

2005 Chateau Ducasse Blanc $12 (750ml) approx. $8 (375ml)
Bordeaux, FR 12.5% abv 375ml Bottle Tasted

A dry table wine from Barsac, in the Sauternes district of Bordeaux consisting of 55% semillon, 35% sauvignon blanc and muscadelle. Offers gooseberry and lemongrass aromas, with some notes of golden pineapple and pear. Musky fruit flavors in the mouth: gooseberry and golden pineapple up front, leading toward guava and lemongrass at the mid-palate. Light to medium bodied- this wine develops a lot of complexity in the glass. Pair with steamed bass or trout, or with chicken Oscar. Mid-length finish of tropical fruits and lime.

NV Ste Genevieve Shiraz

$2 (187ml), $6.50 (4x187ml)
Texas, USA 12.5% abv
Blackberry aromas with some leather, sweet fennel and clove notes. Off-dry in the mouth, with red berry flavors, plum and some cherry highlights. Good acidity to carry the fruit and moderate tannins. A simple, straightforward wine- the Texan answer to Yellow Tail.

2005 McPherson “Tre Colore” $15
Texas, USA 13.5% abv
Opens with black cherry and apricot in the nose, with violets, old leather, vanilla spice and cassis at the edges. Slightly bright acids on the palate, that are almost too much. Plum and cherry flavors through to the middle where oak spices come out. Begins to thin out toward the finish; a blend of 50% carignan, 30% syrah and 20% viognier under a synthetic corks (which means not to age it more than a couple of years after it’s bottled). Apricot hints under berry and rust flavors on the mid-short finish. Off dry at the finish- not a big fan.

NV Mederfil Reggiano Lambrusco Rosso Dolce

$6 Emilia, Italy 8.5% abv
Black grape aromas, very reminiscent of Beaujolais Nouveau, with red licorice and sweet vanilla at the edges. Vibrant fruit flavors, made bright by the carbonation. Plum, dark berry and black table grapes with mild spice. Nice acidity too, but not quite enough to balance out the sweetness. Smoother than many of the Sparkling Shirazes I’ve tried from Australia. Uncomplicated and sweet- which is great if that’s what you’re looking for; a soundly made wine, but not to my taste.

Monday, January 14, 2008

Wine Words

On the third Monday of each month I’m planning to post a rotating feature, depending on what I have time to do or have been reading or for answering feedback. This month it’s crossword puzzles. To play them you’ll need to download the free Across Lite software at: http://www.litsoft.com/ Once you’ve downloaded and installed Across Lite, grab the text files from here and open them in Across to play the puzzles. In order to get them in the correct format, select the “Export as Text” option for downloading from the Google Documents FILE tab. You can check the solutions as you go or just wait until you’ve finished. Other sites on the web offer free crosswords too, like the NY Times and the Quarterly Review of Wines website.

http://www.nytimes.com/pages/crosswords/
http://www.qrw.com/crossword.htm

The first of the puzzles that I’m posting was my first attempt at writing a crossword, and is pretty easy, the second is a bit more challenging. Most of the solution words are wine centered, but I had to connect them somehow…. Anyway, enjoy the puzzles and feel free to let me know what you think- or to email me if you have trouble loading them and I’ll help if I can.

http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dcptkbbk_0cwdh73gw Puzzle #1 (easy)

http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dcptkbbk_1zpkbx2cv Puzzle #2 (more challenging)

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Thursday Tasting Notes

2006 “the Other” Red by Pierano Estate $14
Lodi, CA 13.8% abv

Black raspberry, vanilla and clove aromas lead currant and hints of menthol and tobacco leaves. Medium bodied in the mouth, and made in a fruit-forward style, this wine is nicely balanced in alcohol (an exception to the norm in wines from the hot Lodi appellation). Brambleberry and plum flavors lead to blueberries and vanilla at the mid-palate. Medium finish of dark fruit flavors and citrus tinged acids. This wine is food friendly, and would be a good trade up for anyone who is a fan of Folie a Deux’s Ménage a Trios Red. Try with Kansas City or Memphis barbecue, grilled burgers or rotisserie chicken.

NV Fall Creek Vineyards Chenin Blanc $6
Texas, USA 10.8% abv

Nice nose, with pineapple, guava and gooseberry fruit over citrus highlights. Just slightly more than off-dry in the mouth, there are a lot of reasons to like this everyday wine: the candied pineapple and tropical fruit are nice by themselves, and are kept vibrant with a nicely balanced acidity. But try pairing this wine with roasted or General Tso’s chicken, or grilled white fish and tomatillo salsa and it’ll come alive- the musky fruit flavors will feel bolder in your mouth, and the undercurrents of candied ginger, honey and floral notes will come into sharper focus. A solid value white wine.

2003 Travis Peak Select Cabernet Sauvignon $20
Texas Hill Plains, USA 12.5% abv

Oaky spices (clove, allspice and vanilla) and blueberry aromas over red plum and currant notes- has developed a nice complexity in the bottle over the past couple of years. Oak and tannins are up front of the palate, with a slight bitterness that dissipates as the wine opens up in the glass. Red plum and blueberry flavors come through from the nose with juicy acidity. Spice notes in the middle, heading to flavors of sun-warmed blackberries on the mid-long finish. Again, I think the winery is pricing themselves just over their quality range- this is solidly in the $15 range, but $20 is a stretch. Made by Flat Creek Estate and from what I have found out so far, the difference between the Travis Peak and Flat Creek labels (which look very similar) is that the Flat Creek wines are all from estate grown fruit and the Travis Peak wines come from purchased grapes.

2005 Masi Tupungato “Passo Doble” Malbec/Corvina $24
Mendoza, Argentina 13.5% abv

Opens with aromas of concentrated elderberries, currants and dark cherries with bittersweet chocolate and forest soil at the edges. There are some blackberries in the nose too, with oaky vanilla, clove and pepper. Chewy cherry fruit to begin in the mouth, with berry, fennel and oaky spice flavors through the middle. Good acidity levels to hold up the fruit without being too forward. Needs some decanting to showcase its full potential- but be careful not to let it breathe too long or raisin-like aromas will appear (from the corvina grapes that were partially dried before fermentation). Will pair well with steaks and game meats. Finishes with red plum flavors, berry extract and pepper spice.

Monday, January 7, 2008

Wine Vocab


As part of the new blog, new focus that I mentioned in last weeks' introduction, one of the new focuses that I would like to pursue, is some wine basics- so every second Monday of the month I'll post four or five wine terms, their definitions and pronunciation guides (these are going to be approximations- not all of the pronunciation symbols will translate into Blogger). If there are words you'd like included here, let me know!


Vitis Vinifera (VEE-tis vī-nif′ehr-uh) The botanical family of grapevines native to Europe and the near East; considered to make the best table wines. Examples include (but aren’t limited to) the Sangiovese grape of Italy, the Cabernets of Bordeaux, Syrah in Province, Riesling from Germany and Austria’s Gruner Veltliner.
For more information, visit the University of California at Davis’ web page at:
Hybrid (Hī-bred) A cross of two or more types of the same plant, relating to wine; a cross of two (or more) grape vines to yield a new vine. Such as a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc yielded Cabernet Sauvignon. So it is possible for a vine to be both a hybrid and Vinifera. Other hybrids that you may encounter in a bottle of wine: Vidal Blanc, Chambourcin, Baco Noir, Ruby Cabernet, Pinotage, Marechal Foch, Blanc du Bois and Vignoles (aka Ravat 51).

Bud Break (bud brāk) The point in a grape vines’ annual life cycle where pollination has occurred and the flowers (inflorescences) become very small berries, that will develop into grape bunches.


Bud break at Guy Drew Vineyards; Cortez, Colorado. May 2007.

Palette vs. Palate vs. Pallet (pa-leht; same pronunciation) One of these refers to a set of colors that an artist uses to create a painting, and the other refers to the range of tastes experienced in your mouth. When something moves over your palate, such as a wine that you’ve just sipped, flavor messages are transmitted from your tongue to your brain, where a comparison occurs. This is why you see wine writers fall over themselves using words like “blackberry”, “loganberry” or “dark berry fruit” in an attempt to translate the flavor sensations in a taste of wine. Palette, on the other hand, is used to refer to a range of colors. Such as: “This room is done in a warm (think yellow, orange, red) palette”. Pallet describes the wooden support piece that cases of wine are delivered on, generally there are about 56 cases of wine to a palette. Just for fun, look back over some of the recent wine reviews you’ve read, who is tasting with their mouth, and who is tasting with a piece of wood?!

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Thursday Tasting Notes

2004 Flat Creek Estate “Super Texan” Sangiovese $21
Texas Hill Country, USA 12.5% abv
Varietally correct aromas, with red plum, raspberry and rust coming to the fore. Bright rasp- and loganberry to open the palate. Medium bodied structure, with a nice depth of flavors: bing cherry, red clay and mild fennel. Mid-length finish with loganberry flavors over pepper and clove spices. Pair with classic peasant foods like black eyed peas and ham, cassoulet or roasted game birds. Good flavors and winemaking, my only complaint on this wine is the price; I could justify $15 for another bottle, but over twenty is a hard sell. Drink over the next year.

2003 Querciabella Chianti Classico $promo
Tuscany, Italy 13.5% abv
Red currant aromas with cedar hints, rust notes, red plum fruit with an undercurrent of cured meats. Black plum flavors open the palate in this medium-full bodied Chianti. Earth and red currant in the middle, leading to a finish of cedar and spices: bay leaf, star anise, peppercorn and rosemary stems. The cured meat nuances from the nose translate to an undercurrent throughout the palate. Tannins are rough up front, but develop into a black-tea like feel as the wine gets a chance to breathe. Brought into the country for a wine dinner by the Winemaker, though a few bottles were given out- should you find yourself in possession of a bottle of this very nice Chianti, reward yourself and age for another three years, it will be very well worth the wait.

2005 Penascal Tempranillo $7
Penedes, Spain 13.5% abv
Opens with aromas of blackberry, vanilla bean, clove, strawberry leaves and earth. Consistently fruit forward in style from year to year, this quaffing wine offers blackberry and plum flavors set off by menthol spice. Berry flavors develop in the glass, heading toward a mid-short length finish with vanilla, earth and dark fruit flavors. A solid everyday wine.

2006 Jack Rabbit Hill “M&N” $22
Colorado, USA 14.2% abv
Opening aromas of black cherry and berry fruit with gardenia highlights. This is a blend of 55% pinot noir and 45% pinot munier, organically grown on the Western Slope of Colorado. For those of you looking for a low sulphite count wine, this is one to consider- it has approximately 25 parts per million (ppm), compared to the usual 40 – 70 ppm in commercial wines. Bright berry fruit in the mouth, with red cherry flavors at the mid-palate. Medium bodied, with good acid content to hold the fruit flavor just right. Mellow oak spices at the finish from eight to nine months in oak and some floral hints. Interesting at the least for the pinot munier (one of the Champagne grapes), but has enough elegance to stand on its own. 200 cases made.

2007 Haak Vineyards “dry” Blanc du Bois $14
Texas, USA no alcohol % on label
This hybrid wine offers up musky fruit aromas similar to sauvignon blanc and muscat wines. Vibrant pineapple, papaya and grapefruit flavors in the mouth, with hints of mango and dogwood blossoms. Crisp and refreshing, this is a great alternative to the vinho verdes of Portugal. Chill down and serve with brunch food, Easter gatherings or wait ‘till summer and enjoy in hot weather.

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

New Year and a New Blog

Last year I wrote a blog while running a small wine shop in Colorado- this year I’ve relocated to Texas and am starting a new blog with a slight change in focus. The WineReporter blog will focus more on lesser-known appellations and growing areas, though there will still be the occasional beer focused feature. Tasting notes are not done on a point or rating based style, instead they’ll be done with descriptions of the wines aromas and flavors, with food pairings or other contextual notes. If I don’t like a wine, I’ll let you know why, though chances are the wines I don’t like won’t get reviewed here much- there’s too much good wine out there to talk about to waste time with lots of negative press.

This year will feature some new types of content for me, going beyond just tasting notes. Once a month, I’ll post some of the following: Wine Vocab, Wine Words (book reviews, crosswords, etc), Off the Beaten Appellation and Monthly Feature articles and some Op-Ed articles too. Comments are welcomed, but moderated to prevent things like link dumping, profanity, and off-topic comments (all of which happened on my last blog).

If you’d like to contact me, feel free email me at: vinpirationblog@gmail.com.