Thursday, February 21, 2008

Thursday Tasting Notes

2006 Luna Rosa Malbec $7
Mendoza, Argentina 13% abv

Boysenberry extract, mild eucalyptus, hints of plum, rose blossoms and leather. The rose petals come through in the mouth, with red berry fruit. Spicy mint and bitter herb flavors in the middle, leading to dark plum and cedar on the finish. This could be a nice malbec, but is marred by a soapy flavor throughout the palate. On the hunch of an acquaintance who has some wine making experience, he tested the pH at 3.8- on the high side of normal and this may explain the soapy taste and odd mouth feel. That doesn’t excuse the winery for releasing a wine with a chemical problem, which could be easily fixed.

NV Messina Hof “Texas Hold’Em” White $10
American Wine 13% abv
This is a blend of pinot grigio and gewürztraminer from the Texas winery Messina Hof, it’s not clear from the bottle though where the grapes for this wine or the red came from. Pear and white grape aromas, followed by lychee nut and hints of nectarine and honeysuckle. The gewürztraminer spiciness comes out on the palate, lending white pepper and nutmeg to the fruit combination of: lychee, white grapes, nectarine and tangerines. There is an undertone of floral notes that starts in the middle and continues through the finish. Light and delicate, pair with scallops, shrimp, or sole munier.

NV Messina Hof “Texas Hold’Em” Red $11
American Wine 13% abv

Red plum, clove, vanilla spice and blackberry aromas come from this blend of merlot and “shiraz”. Oaky spices and plum flavors open the palate. Juicy mid-palate flavors of berry, vanilla and leather flavors. The tannins mellow in the mouth, letting the dark fruit flavors show through. Mid length finish, slightly overpriced. Pair with burgers or chili.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Guy Drew Vineyards

There is something special about Guy Drew and his vineyards in southwestern Colorado. Compared to other wine regions, Colorado’s wine industry is still a newborn. “…Yes, we have a long way to go. But we’re getting there…” Guy Drew said in an interview for the Ft. Worth (Texas) Star-Telegram. With his winery entering its eighth year winning medals at international wine competitions around the country, Guy is helping guide Colorado wines out of infancy.


Guy Drew bought grapes from Palisade growers for his first two vintages. “We decided to come out with our second label first, Crooked Creek, and use the Guy Drew Vineyards label for our reserve wines” he notes. His first releases under his own name totaled just 65 cases of a 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon and a vintage port from the same year. Today, Guy has 20 acres planted with nine varieties, and is learning to work with the micro climates unique to his land.


Like the vineyards near Grand Junction and Palisade, where most of the Colorado wine industry is focused, Guy’s vineyards in southern Colorado experience late spring and early fall frosts. To compensate for the frost-shortened growing season, the Montezuma Valley provides a dry growing season with warm fall days followed by cool nights. This provides concentrated color in red grapes and good acidity in both red and white grapes. Guy comments that he still has a lot to learn about the various micro climates in the region, both as he plants more of his own grapes and helps newcomers determine which varieties will be best suited to their land. “We still have to take care to plant the correct varieties in the right place since the length of the growing season can vary….” Remarks Guy, “Our biggest challenge has been understanding these micro climates and what causes the adverse conditions, primarily spring frost.”


Independent growers’ have twenty acres near Guy’s winery that supplement his own vineyard production. Guy has contracted to have another 20 acres planted this spring. Three new growers are establishing vineyards in the area this spring. With vineyards in the area expanding, Guy hopes to raise his current production of 3,000+ cases annually up to near 6,000 cases year, toward a goal of 15,000 cases annually.


The wines Guy is producing have what the French refer to as “terroir” (pronounced: “teh-rwahr”, pretend you’re Babwa Wawters), that alchemical representation of the history and place that a wine came from. You can taste the limestone which runs through the vineyard soil. There is an earthiness to his wines as well, from the clay loam and red soil blown in from nearby Monument Valley. All Colorado wines have an inherent mineral quality to them; the Crooked Creek and Guy Drew Vineyard wines have turned this into an asset.


Imbibe Magazine wrote this of the 2003 Guy Drew Vineyards Cabernet Franc: Guy Drew is on to something…. This medium bodied Cabernet Franc is filled with dark fruit aromas and is just acidic enough. Visit Guy on the web at: http://www.guydrewvineyards.com/.



2003 Crooked Creek Syrah $10
Colorado 14% abv
Nice blackberry and plum aromas, framed by earthy smells. Bright cherry flavors in the mouth, with nice mineraly/ earthy notes emerging on the mid-palate. Good depth of flavors, with a hint of herbs that lead up to a finish of dark fruit and tangy acids. Silver Medal at the 2005 Eastern International Wine Competition.


2005 Crooked Creek Rosé $10
Colorado 12%
An off-dry rose made by bleeding juice off Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) wines (this process will concentrated the remaining juice in proportion to the skins and seeds left in the original fermentation container, making the color and structure of the resulting wine much more intense. At the same time, you get a little pink colored juice, which treated nicely will yield a nice rosé wine to drink over the summer). Nice strawberry aromas that burst onto the palate with your first sip. A little sweeter than I expected, but well made and refreshing.

2003 Crooked Creek Cabernet Sauvignon $10

Colorado 14% abv
This wine highlights the mineral elements of southwestern Colorado. Blackberry fruit and new leather flavors paired with bright acids make it quaffable on its own, or great with food. Black plum, cracked pepper and spice at the finish. Try with BBQ or Colorado lamb, roasted or braised. Took a Silver medal at the 2005 Denver International Competition.


2005 Crooked Creek American Gewurztraminer $11
Colorado/ Utah alc % not in my notes
Lots of melon aromas in the nose, which easily follow to the mouth. Nice spiciness on the palate, a gewürztraminer hallmark, followed by notes of apricots and tropical fruits. This wine shows best with food- I had it at a wine dinner at the Black Cat Bistro in Boulder, Colorado last fall, they paired it with a dish of wild rice spatzle, apples, pumpkin and lemon juice- it made me rethink the wine from my earlier tasting notes. The grapes are source from a vineyard just over the Colorado border in Utah. Worth buying alone just to support a rogue wine industry in Utah.


2004 Crooked Creek Meritage $11
Colorado 14%
A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 20%Merlot and 3%Petit Verdot. Aromatic right from the cork pull, this Bordeaux blend exhibits rich plum, black currant and berry extract. Those flavors linger before a spicy vanilla and black pepper finish. There is a great acid/ tannin balance here, should you want to let it age over the next few years. The wine develops complexity in the glass, with chokecherry and hints of leather coming out. There is a mineral tang running through the wine too, helping bring all the flavors together.


2004 Guy Drew Vineyards Syrah $14
Montezuma County, Colorado 14.8% Alcohol
Black raspberry, cassis and spicy vanilla aromas in the nose. A medium-full bodied wine full of dark berry flavors enhanced by layers of cedar, rocky soil and clove/ vanillin spice. Nice complexity to the fruit- develops in the glass to offer up more fruit tones and absorbs the spice into a nice complexity. A great food wine (lamb, BBQ ribs or lentil stews), the relatively high alcohol content doesn’t overwhelm the palate or the aromas. Finishes with strong chocolate notes, and just a hint of earthy minerals. Took Silver Medals at both the 2006 Grand Harvest Awards and the 2006 Colorado Winefest.

2003 Guy Drew Vineyards Cabernet Franc $13

Montezuma County, Colorado 13%

Begins with generous strawberry and rose petal aromas, with hints of anise and vanilla. Comes alive on the palate with mulberry, old leather, and dark plum flavors with some culinary herbs on the fringes. This is a great example of an overlooked varietal- rich, well balanced and intreguing. Pair with lamb (or venison) chops with a dark cherry infused sauce or a more conventional grilled filet mignon. Long finish of dark fruits and oaky vanilla.

2004 Guy Drew Vineyards Riesling $14

Montezuma County, Colorado 13% abv
Nectarine, clover and spicy floral notes in the nose. Starts in the palate with super ripe nectarine, spiced guava and dogwood blossom flavors. A bone dry Riesling (no residual sugar at all) that develops granny smith apple flavors toward the finish, preceded by flower blossom and lemon notes. Slightly bitter at first, but hits it’s stride when matched with food- think spicy Indian or Northern Thai Curries (especially a decent Green Straits Devil curry).



2004 Guy Drew Vineyards “Metate” $30
Montezuma County, Colorado 14%
Guy's reserve wine- really limited quantities made and now very hard to find. A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 16% each of: Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Cedar, black cherry, earth/ moist soil and red currant aromas. Velvet purple in color, starts with red plum, oaky spice and currant flavors. Blackberry and vanilla at the mid-palate through the finish, where you get nice earthy notes. A wine made for aging over the next three or four years, it drinks nicely now. Pair with ancho crusted venison or mole dishes. Develops tobacco and leather aromas and flavors in the glass.

2003 Guy Drew Vineyards Port $20

Colorado 18% abv, 500 ml bottle
Blackberry, honey, vanilla bean custard and candied plum aromas develop in the glass- this is still a very young vintage port. Deep, dark ruby in color- almost opaque- with the texture of melted chocolate. Generous candied plum, bourbon vanilla and complex berry flavors. Some notes of golden raisins, and honey at the mid-palate. This is an almost over-the-top port, that is the perfect antidote for cold weather. Chocolate at the finish with just a hint of minerals. Only 50 cases made, won a silver medal at the Eastern International Wine Competition.



A view of Guy's vineyards, from near the tasting room.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Valentine's Day Tasting Notes

2003 Tintara Shiraz $19
McLaren Vale, Australia 14.5%

Molasses and eucalyptus underneath blackberry extract and dark plum aromas. Nice aromatic complexity, with jasmine flowers and cassis developing in the glass. There is just the barest perception of alcohol on the palate, along with some heavy oak spice, that mellows in the glass- marking this as a young shiraz still, with several years left before it hits its prime. Decant at least an hour to drink now. Blackberry jam flavors in the middle are followed by loganberry and blood orange notes toward the finish. The molasses from the nose translates in the mouth to a deep undercurrent of sweet, stewed fruit flavors. Long finish of clove, vanilla extract, plum, oak and berry flavors. Incredible balance throughout, well worth the $20. Great with dark, bittersweet chocolate- try to find some with chipotle peppers blended in to have an over-the-top experience.

2006 Adelsheim Vineyards Pinot Gris $16
Willamette Valley, Oregon 13.8% abv

Very ice nose- starts with honey glazed figs, sweet apple and hints of melon before offering up creamy pear, carambola and Asian baking spices. Vibrant, but not overwhelming, acids on the palate that carries the fruit well. Pear and spices up front with fig, melon and grape flavors following in the mid-palate. Star fruit, honeysuckle and lime zest flavors at the finish. Very round flavors with a good balance between the acids and fruit. Just a hint of minerals in the mouth. This is not my favorite Oregon pinot gris, but is a great wine- pair with anything from spicy pacific rim cuisine to spaetzle and schnitzel or rotisserie chicken. Very nice.

2006 Coppola “Sofia” Pinot Noir Rose $16
Carneros, California 12% abv
Creamy strawberry aromas set off by hints of pine nuts, raspberries, canary melons, and tropical fruits like guava and candied mango. Rich and round on the palate, with a great viscosity from a little sugar left over from fermentation that both makes the wine off-dry, and gives it heft as it rolls over your tongue. Flavored with strawberry and citrus up front, the mid-palate offers softer raspberry notes. This wine would make a great brunch staple, with navel orange flavored acids that will make your mouth water for food. The tropical fruit notes from the nose come out on the finish, with notes of lemon peel and flowers.

NV La Diosa Cellars Sangria $8
Texas 12% abv
This Texas made sangria conveniently comes bottles with a screw cap, which makes it perfect for taking along on a picnic, or traveling out on a night of romance. For those of you who like your red wines sweet, this is a slightly grown-up version of those sugar filled reds you’re used to. Aromas of fresh orange juice, grapefruit peel and rosemary play off the red berry and plum you’d get from a red wine. Bright on the palate, with a hint at effervescence in the flavoring, there are generous dabs of juicy grape, candied raspberry and citrus flavors on the palate. Serve well chilled.

Monday, February 11, 2008

February Wine Vocabulary

Vitis Aestivalis (VEE-tis ess-tiv-VAY-lis) A family of grape vines native to North America. Sometimes used when making hybrids to lower acidity or reduce the “foxy” flavor of vitis labrusca grapes. The most commonly known grape in the wine world from the v. Aestivalis family is the Norton, sometimes called Cynthiana, that makes a dark colored and intensely flavored wine somewhere between a cabernet and a mourvedre. There is some debate as to the exact origins of Norton, and whether Cynthiana is a different grape or just a clonal selection. Norton wines are made in Virginia, Missouri, Texas and other states in the American South.

Gewurztraminer (Guh-vertz-trah-mee-ner) A grape native to Germany, and also grown extensively in the Alsace region of France, known for producing slightly sweet wines with a “spicy” finish. The spices here are different from the spices in oak, namely they are more toward the baking end of the scale and tend to be described as sweet clove, nutmeg, white pepper, cinnamon and cardamom. The “spiciness” of gewürztraminer combined with a small amount of residual sugar (say, one to four percent) makes an ideal accompaniment to foods that are “hot” spicy- think Thai, Tex-Mex, Tandoori from India or traditional cuisines in southern Mexico and Cuba.
Gewurztraminers can also make very elegant dry white wines capable of aging for several years, though these are rarely found outside of Europe because of the demand for them is much higher in Europe than the United States. The grape is also capable of producing some very sweet dessert wines, on par with the best in the world. The dessert versions can be slightly easier to find, but tend to be quite expensive for most wine drinkers.

Dry Farming (drī FArm-eng) A practice of vineyard management that uses very little irrigation water, in an area that generally does not get much rainfall. Cover crops are added between vine rows to help conserve soil moisture. The reasoning behind dry farming is that the grape vines will have to work a little harder, sending their roots down further and thereby creating a grape (and by extension wine) that has a much higher concentration of flavor for its size, and a stronger expression of the place where it was grown- what the French refer to as terroir.

Aroma vs. Bouquet (ə-rō-mə vs. bō-kā) While similar in function, these two words refer to two different aspects of smell. Aroma, when used in wine terminology, means the smells coming from a young wine- and young is a relative term her; it could mean a ten year old Bordeaux that was meant to age for thirty or more years, or it could refer to the smells given off a glass of last years’ chardonnay. Bouquet, meanwhile, refers to the range of smells coming from an older wine. For whites, five years plus in age is old enough to qualify, and for reds you can start thinking about the bouquet at ten to fifteen years- depending on the style of wine. An older wine will generally have a much more complex set of smells than a younger bottle; for example a young cabernet might give you blueberry, clove, vanilla and red plum aromas. An older bottle from the same producer might give you a complex web of earth notes, tobacco, dark berry fruit and subtle oaky spice at the edges; meaning essentially that it was difficult to isolate specific smells from the wine. On the occasion that you open a bottle of wine that has been aged too long, it is quite valid to use words like ”water”, “oxidation”, “old berry” when describing it- what has happened is that on a molecular level, the wine is beginning to separate and the varied components are no longer holding together.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Thursday Tasting Notes

2006 Chard-On-Yeah! $10
Monterey County, California 13.5% abv

Creamy pear and red apple open the nose, with star fruit and tropical fruit hints. Almost overbearing acidity at first, but mellows after a moment in the glass to offer pear and pineapple flavors. The mid-palate has creamy apple flavors and yeasty highlights. A crisp, clean tasting Unoaked chardonnay that holds onto its varietal character. Finishes with flavors of toasted nuts, Fuji apples and lime juice. A well made wine for drinking with friends- just chill down and serve with cheese and cracker trays. A nicely done house wine for World Market, made by Trinchero Family Estates (Folie a Deux, Napa Cellars, etc).

2004 Wrangler Cabernet Sauvignon $10
Columbia Valley, WA 13.5% abv
Aromas of Blackberries, medium-heavy toasted oak, plums, soy sauce and toasted sesame seeds. Juicy plum flavors with some currant and soy spice behind. Medium bodied tannins- acids are a little flat though. Mellow through the mid-palate, showing blueberry notes. Finishes with berry fruit, pepper, sesame and star anise spice. There is nice fruit here, but it’s overshadowed by the weird soy-sesame flavors and left unsupported by the too mild acids. I think that there is potential from this winery- they just aren’t quite there yet.

2005 Pine & Post Merlot $7
Columbia Valley, WA 13.5% abv
Opens with spicy blackberry, cloves and plum in the nose. Light to medium bodied, with plum and blackberry flavors coming through on the palate. Slightly bitter in the middle, leading to a short finish with only mild spice. Included here only because of the next review.

2005 Pine & Post Chardonnay $7
Columbia Valley, WA 13% abv
Creamy green apple notes in the nose, set off by ginger, lychee and bread yeast smells. Firmly medium bodied with tangerine flavored acids. Nice pear and apple flavors, especially strong in the middle. Mango flavors come out on the far side of the palate, along with creamy vanilla and guava notes. There are some caramelized sugar hints at the finish, lime flavors come out. A very nice chardonnay for the price- pair with tilefish over lemon scented rice pilaf, braised chicken or ginger spiced pork.

Monday, February 4, 2008

Malbec and Chocolate

When I used to work as a Caterer and Chef, one of the things that I looked for were recipes that took a small amount of time, few ingredients, and had a great presentation value. Around this time of year I did a lot of work with chocolate- fondue set-ups, individual desserts and small gift lots of rich desserts. And truffles, lots of truffles- which are much easier that you'd think to do. They take some hand work, and are monotonous in huge batches, though in small batches are simple and quick to do.

Ghirardelli Dark Citrus Truffles:
Hands on time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 1 day

Ghirardelli Intense Dark "Citrus Sunset" 3.5 oz chocolate bar
½ cup heavy whipping cream
1-tablespoon butter (may be either salted or unsalted)

1. Measure butter, and whipping cream into microwave safe bowl
2. Microwave butter/cream mixture until butter is just barely melted, and remove bowl from microwave-about one minute
3. Break six of the eight squares of chocolate into the butter/cream mixture, reserving two pieces for coating
4. Stir butter/cream/chocolate mixture until the chocolate has barely melted in- this mixture is called ganache
5. Refrigerate your ganache overnight
6. Working quickly- With a tablespoon scoop out tablespoon sized chunks of ganache and roll them into balls, and place on a small plate
7. Freeze the ganache balls for ½ hour
8. Place the two reserved squares of chocolate onto a perfectly dry microwave safe bowl
9. Microwave chocolate squares in 10 second intervals until it looks shiny and soft but not yet runny- this is your tempered chocolate coating
10. Using two spoons roll a ganache ball in chocolate coating, and place on a plate that has been covered in waxed paper- work quickly and one at a time, if necessary chocolate coating can be put back in the microwave for 5-10 seconds to get it smooth again
11. Chill truffles for at least two hours, and serve
Note: You can substitute another gourmet chocolate bar in for the "Citrus Sunset" Bar above to get a differently flavored truffle.

Dark chocolate truffles work well with malbecs, some of my favorite malbecs and -based blends are:

Catena Alta Argentina $60
Exotic dark fruit and mint aromas, loads of spice in the nose and on the palate too. Black raspberry, currant and bittersweet chocolate flavors. Hints of smoke and sumac powder.
Ben Marco "Expressivo" Argentina $30
A rich and expressive Malbec based blend- has some tannat, syrah, cabernet and bonarda. Limited quantities made- age for four to six years or decant. Also, the regular Ben Marco malbec around $18 is very good, particularly the 2004 if you can find it.
Lo Tengo Argentina $10
A classic fruit forward malbec with pepper and spice on the finish, lives up to the hologram label. A second label for Bodega Norton, their Malbec Reserva is also worth seeking out at $15.
Montes Classic Series Chile $10
Chilean Malbec- surprisingly good, but then again it's Montes. Rich and full in the mouth, and a bittersweet chocolate laced finish.
Desolation Flats California, USA $7
Fun and fruity- loads of boysenberry and blackberry with a moderate amount of spices. Now widely available, but a fun find. Recognizable by the Sheriff’s Badge shaped label.

Thursday, January 31, 2008

A Vertical Tasting on Two Spanish Wines

Marquis de Gelida Vintage Cava Brut $13
Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, Spain 11.5% abv

2000
A complex nose of creamy butter, toasted almonds, Jonathan apples and mellow lime. Golden pineapple and Asian pear flavors with hints of mango on the palate. Lime and green pear at the mid-palate. Granny Smith apples at finish with some musk, limestone and unsalted cashew flavors. Mild ammonia.

2001
Nutty aromas are more pronounced here, with green apple, lime and minerals in the background. Mellow acidity on the palate with pineapple, guava, lime and grapefruit flavors. Very creamy texture, mellower and smoother than the ’00, more complete. Minerals are barely apparent in the mouth. My pick of the three vintages.

2002
Opens with lemon and mineral aromas, followed by buttery notes and toasted nuts. Brisk and limey in the mouth, showing lemongrass, kiwi and pineapple flavors. Hints of butter and pear. Hazelnut flavors come out at finish.

Pair with scallops and shellfish with an appetizer. Sole, sea bass or crab entrees, or with crème caramel or butter cookies for dessert.

Juan Gil Monastrell $16
Jumilla, Spain 14.8% abv

2002
Dark chocolate, cherry, black raspberry jam, silver leaf sage, cedar and star anise aromas set off by pepper- dark, exotic and complex nose. Cherry and black raspberry jam up front on the palate. Plum, cassis liquor and chai spices in the mid-palate. Pepper and oaky spice at the finish. This wine may age a bit longer, but I think that it’s reached it’s peak- its still rich and powerful with a very long finish. Sage and lavender herb notes are in the far background- and come out as a slightly bitter, but not unpleasant, note. Tannins still carry the fruit well. My pick of the two.

2003
Blackberry, and oak aromas set off by wood smoke hints. More mellow oak aromas than ’02- more fruit forward. Begins on the palate with cherry and blackberry jam. Berries and cassis liquor in the middle with a slight bitterness at the finish. Much more fruit focused that the ’02, and with better tannin integration and acid balance. Finishes with wood smoke, vanilla, clove and chokecherry flavors.

Pair
with game meats like antelope or venison for entrees, with chocolate at dessert or with quail as an appetizer.